Tønder Festival at the Celtic Cafe


August 26 - Sept. 1, 2003

Michael G. Rose is a pianist from Boston and is now based in Copenhagen, Denmark. He performs with violinist Ditte Fromseier Mortensen in the duo Fromseier Rose. Their debut CD, Contradiction, which features Niamh Parsons as guest singer for three songs, has been receiving excellent reviews. Michael was very happy to attend the Tønder Festival as a journalist for Celtic Cafe, He will continue to provide reports to the Cafe on Celtic-related happenings wherever he finds them, though he will admit to being more inclined to practice his scales than to proofread his own text.

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Tønder is a small quiet town in the southwest corner of Denmark, lying near the North Sea and the German border. The last weekend of every August the town opens its arms to folk musicians and music lovers from everywhere and for five days becomes the center of the Celtic music world. The Tønder Festival is one of Europe's largest folk festivals with venues including two large music tents in a field just minutes away from the center of the town along with several stages in the town itself. And it seems as if most everyone in the town is a volunteer, helping with anything from running the food tents to cleaning up after the party. The musicians share the spirit, making Tønder one of the most sought after gigs on the circuit. Many of the musicians arrive on Thursday and stay through until Tuesday morning, performing several times at the festival and then staying on to help throw a big party for the volunteers on Monday night.

This year's festival lineup looked especially exciting to Celtic music and dance lovers. But there were a few difficulties at the start. Eddi Reader had to cancel to give her voice a much needed rest. And Liam O'Flynn had a tragedy in his family which forced his band to cancel. However the musicians and organizers pulled together to fill in the slots. Carlos Nunez flew in on short notice to take Liam's place, and the Oysterband unplugged their heavy gear to do lighter acoustic sets in Eddi's slots.

The party started on Thursday with a night of folk rock in the big tent. This year the first act was the Canadian band, The PaperBoys. They blended a strong singer/songerwriter frontman, Tom Landa, with several more Celtic- oriented musicians, including the fine flute player, Dave Gossage. The second act of the evening was Wolfstone, which can be considered one of the festival's house bands. I hadn't seen the band for a few years, but after listening to Duncan Chisholm's new solo CD, I can hear how much Wolfstone is Duncan, and not the other way around. The final act on Thursday night was also an old Tønder favorite, The Oysterband, in their rock-n-roll incarnation.

Friday and Saturday were devoted to running from the tents to the art museum to the gymnasium and back to the tents to catch as many of the 39 acts as possible. I had been looking forward to seeing my current favorite group, Flook, since the first and only other time I had seen them was in 1997. They said they had been trying to get into the Tønder Festival for years. Our paths finally crossed at the Art Museum. It was a slightly restrained venue where the audience drank red wine rather than beer at the intermission, but it was a good place to hear Flook, who gave a performance filled with energy and humor.

Fresh from Flook, I had to run down the street to catch the Scottish band Blazin Fiddles. They are an all-star collection of 5 fiddlers, piano and guitar. The fiddlers include Bruce MacGregor and Catriona MacDonald and the five of them cover the very different regional styles of Scotland. They are held together by 'Easter Ross's answer to Dr. John', Andy Thorburn on piano and Marc Clement on guitar. It was a showy performance which gave each of the fiddlers a chance to display their virtuosity and to highlight their native style, from the western isles up to Shetland. They are a festival band, and it is worth tracking down each of the musicians to hear them on their own individual projects.

When they were done I had a 10 minute trot down to the main tent to catch Eileen Ivers and Immigrant Soul. Eileen's act was, reasonably enough, very American in its mastery of explicit showmanship. She and her band have a very tight show which excels at controlling the energy level of the audience and communicating the blend of influences in Irish-American music. Eileen's natural exuberance and joy in the music was constantly shining through the shows choreography. This is a band to experience live.

There were also a couple of excellent performers that were new to me. Canadian April Verch impressed everyone with a well rounded set that featured her swinging fiddle style and she even added a couple of songs and a bit of step dancing. Corquiéu, from the province of Asturia, Spain, gave a great exhibition of the southern face of Celtic music. They played Asturian melodies and songs with the power of Wolfstone and the passion of the Latins. I've had their CD on every day since I've been back.

As you might have guessed, there was plenty of music happening late at night after the main shows were done. There were more informal concerts in an old mill by the river. Saturday night featured Blazin Fiddles inviting up Altan and Sláinte Mhath for a session that ran from 1 a.m. to 3:30 a.m. And the after-concert sessions ran until 6 a.m. The festival is one of the few places where you can get a severe case of jetlag without changing time zones.

I wish had seen more of Shooglenifty's acid croft and Sláinte Mhath, but I did manage to catch them Sunday afternoon at one of the two 'ceilidhs', where the bands play mix-n-match on the main stages. The music was funky and fun and it occasionally looked as if the musicians might have even practiced together, though I did hear rumors of flying bows and basses falling into pianos on stage. The tent I was at featured a rotating mix of Shooglenifty, Sláinte Mhath, Flook, Blazin Fidddles, the Karan Casey band and several others in a relaxed afternoon of music making.

Sunday night was the final official concert. The Karan Casey band was the opening act and she and her band did a lovely job in a short set that left me wanting more. Karan was followed by Altan, who gave as professional and high quality a performannce as I can remember seeing. An added treat was the special guest for a few sets of tunes, soon-to-be mom Mairéad Ní Mhaonaigh's dad, Francie. He played with the pure drive of the old Donegal style and added a real bite to the sound of the group. The Cottars gave a short song and then Riverdance - The Flying Squad took the stage. They gave a glittery show of virtuosity and precision that was an excellent finale to the official program.

A unique aspect of the Tønder Festival is that most of the work and most all of the manual labor is done by over 1500 volunteers. Since they are working during the festival they don't get to see much of the music. In return for their efforts they are guests at the Monday night party, a long-standing Tønder tradition. A crew has learned how to make a curry for 1500 and each of the bands from the festival performs two songs, in a marathon of music that lasts from around 8 p.m. to 3 a.m. There were even some musical surprises to be had here. John Spiers and Jon Boden somehow seemed to condense the energy of a 10-piece 45-minute set into a two-man ten-minute set, a brilliant performance.

And that brings us to Tuesday morning and a departing brunch for those left standing. It was bit sad to leave but, quite frankly, there is simply a limit to how much fun can be had in five days. And we were all way past our limits.

Festival Coverage: Michael G. Rose
Feature: Bernadette Price
Original Web Design: Alexander Servas

 
 
 
Tonder Festival
Tønder, a 5 minute walk from the festival grounds
Downtown Tønder on a non Festival day
Making the Monday night curry
Late Night Session (left to right - Ditte Fromseier Mortensen
Eileen Ivers and Immigrant Soul  - Eileen and Tommy McDonnell
Altan with Mairead's Dad, Francie
The Karan Casey Band (with Paul Meehan, Niall Vallely and Robbie Overson)
Wolfstone - Duncan Chisholm and Alyn Cosker
April Verch with her husband and percussionist  Marc Bru
© 2003 by CelticCafe.com