Tønder Festival at the Celtic Cafe


August 25-29, 2004 - The 30th Anniversary!

Michael G. Rose is a pianist from Boston and is now based in Copenhagen, Denmark. He performs with violinist Ditte Fromseier Mortensen in the duo Fromseier Rose. Their debut CD, Contradiction, which features Niamh Parsons as guest singer for three songs, has been receiving excellent reviews. See our Celtic Cafe feature on Fromseier Rose by clicking here.

We thank Michael for attending the Tønder Festival as a journalist for the Celtic Cafe again this year, as he did last year. See our 2003 feature on the festival by clicking here.

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Tønder is a small quiet town in the southwest corner of Denmark, lying near the North Sea and the German border. The last weekend of every August the town opens its arms to folk musicians and music lovers from everywhere and for five days becomes the center of the Celtic music world. The Tønder Festival is one of Europe's largest folk festivals with venues including two large music tents in a field just minutes away from the center of the town along with several stages in the town itself. And it seems as if most everyone in the town is a volunteer, helping with anything from running the food tents to cleaning up after the party. The musicians share the spirit, making Tønder one of the most sought-after gigs on the circuit. Many of the musicians arrive on Thursday and stay through until Tuesday morning, performing several times at the festival and then staying on to help throw a big party for the volunteers on Monday night.

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When Danes have a 'round' birthday, one when their age gets a '0' at the end, they celebrate by throwing a large party for themselves. While as an American I've never quite caught the habit of organizing my own birthday party, happily the organizers of the Tønder Festival have done a wonderful job of throwing themselves a 30-year anniversary party. And all the festival goers were the appreciative guests.


To celebrate, the festival started on Wednesday, a day earlier than usual, with a performance of Shaun Davey's symphonic work The Brendan Voyage with Liam O'Flynn and the Southern Jylland Symphony Orchestra. Unfortunately I couldn't make it to Tønder in time to hear that concert. The first band I heard was Vamp on Thursday night. Vamp is a Norwegian folk rock band that has recently been working with the Irish piper Mick O'Brien. While they occasionally sounded a bit like Wolfstone singing in Norwegian, through the course of the concert they proved to be multidimensional, with some very good arrangements and shifts in style. Norwegian music has a mournful and lonely quality and this melancholy transfers well to the Irish tunes which Mick has taught the band.


Friday and Saturday nights presented the usual Tønder problem, with eight concert venues offering great music, how to choose what to listen to? It is like having to choose a single dessert from a large dessert tray at a five-star restaurant. Friday night I decided to go for the chocolate fudge cake with chocolate frosting and chocolate ice cream, or the equivalent, Richard Wood, Lunasa and Danu.

Cape Breton performers are known for emphasizing showmanship in their performances, and Richard Wood does so more than most. His concert featured mostly fast pyrotechnics, with Kim and Skip Holmes on piano and guitar acting as calm counterpoints. Lunasa takes the opposite approach, concentrating entirely on the music. Bassist Trevor Hutchinson set the atmosphere and the groove for the rest of the band to work with. It was fiddler's Sean Smyth's birthday Friday evening, and the band gave him a shirt (and probably a few beers) and he played a tune on a brand new whistle he had just received. Apparently the Irish don't have to throw their own birthday parties.

Danu finished off the evening alternating between the full seven-piece ensemble and playing sets in smaller combinations. The variety was effective and refreshing. Muireann Nic Amhlaobh's songs were especially memorable. Her alto voice is full and resonant. She is also a fine instrumentalist on flute and whistles. And the ubiquitous John Sheehan from the Dubliners came up to join them for a tune.

There is an old mill by the river in Tønder, and it's name, Visem¿llen, translates loosely as 'The Song Mill'. During the festival this venue has a double personality. In the afternoons and evenings it is used for some of the quieter singer-songwriter acts. But late at night the venue undergoes a transformation and some of the larger bands host their friends in a concert that runs from around midnight to four in the morning. Friday's late night hosts were Danu, fresh from their concert which ended just a half hour before. They had a long list of guests joining them. I heard them with Richard Wood and then John Spillane. Richard Wood slowed down a bit and stopped dancing around. Playing with Danu showcased his excellent musicianship more than his solo performance earlier in the evening. John Spillane, who runs one of the world's friendliest and most entertaining guestbooks from his website, followed as Danu's next guest. The performance was so good that perhaps he should think of asking Danu to be his backup band for his next album.


Saturday afternoon brought the young artist showcases. I was especially impressed with the Anna Massie Band. Anna and her band mates, Jenn Butterworth on guitar and Mairearad Green on accordion, look to be in their very early twenties, but their playing has surprising depth and superb musicality. Another young band, Give Way also performed. They are 4 young sisters from Scotland, with ages ranging from 13 to 18. They have already released a CD and they are very accomplished technically and with good stage presence. I'm sure that with a few more years of performing they will mature and their act will have the final polish that experience gives. Another Saturday tradition is the performance by the students at the Danish conservatory, the Carl Nielsen Academy. The conservatory has a folk music specialization which is directed by Harald Haugaard, the fiddler from the duo Haugaard and H¿irup. Harald leads the students in a big band presentation of Danish folk music. This performance has been improving each year and featured some excellent arrangements this year.

Saturday night and Sunday afternoon gave a chance to see several of the Canadian and American bands that were part of the program. Bruce Molsky, who often performs with Alasdair Frasier, gave an enchanting solo performance of Appalachian music. His performance of the old time tradition of singing while accompanying himself on fiddle was especially impressive. Two bands from the far ends of Canada, The Bills from Vancouver Island and Le Vent du Nord from Quebec were also on the program. They performed a set together of mostly French Canadian tunes, which have an entirely different swing to them than Celtic music. It was a refreshing change and a thoroughly enjoyable performance.

The final concert on Sunday night had Seamus Begley on accordion and Jim Murray on guitar opening with a fine set of straight Irish tunes. They brought two dancers with them, Seosamh î Neachtain and Róisín Ní Mháinnín. It was an excellent and energetic start to the evening. They were followed by Carlos Nunez and his band. Carlos is the quintessential entertainer, always finding a way to reach the audience. On this occasion he did it by inviting the local piper Stig Bang-Mortensen to join him on stage for some Danish tunes. While Bang-Mortensen lives in Tønder, he is a top level highland piper with a great swing to his playing. For the last couple of sets Nunez also invited up Kevin Crawford and Cillian Vallely from Lunasa, for a fast paced finish. The final performer was Mary Black, joined by The Black Brothers. The family reunion had an intimate feel and the focus on the Irish singing tradition provided a pleasant finishing touch after listening to so much excellent instrumental music.

For those lucky enough to find their way, there was also a great very very late night session. It featured dancing on the tabletops by Seosamh and Róisín at five in the morning and some fine songs by Eddi Reader, John Spillane and all of the Blacks. Sessions with tunes and singers often quickly split into two sessions, but everyone stuck together, listening, singing, playing and dancing until long after dawn for this party. And fortunately you won't have to wait ten years for the next round birthday, next year's festival will be the last weekend of August.

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See our feature on the 2003 Tonder Festival by clicking here.


Band Links

shaundavey.com/brendanv.htm -- Brendan's Voyage
vamp.no/english/index.htm -- Vamp
peisland.com/richardwood -- Richard Wood
lunasa.ie -- Lunasa
danu.net -- Danu
johnspillane.ie -- John Spillane
annamassie.com -- Anna Massie
footstompin.com/artists/give_way -- Give Way
brucemolsky.com -- Bruce Molsky
thebills.ca -- The Bills
leventdunord.com -- Le Vent Du Nord
carlos-nunez.com -- Carlos Nunez
hhduo.dk -- Haugaard & Høirup
mary-black.net -- Mary Black

Festival Coverage: Michael G. Rose
Feature: Bernadette Price
Original Web Design: Alexander Servas

 
 
 
 
Tonder Festival
Anna Massie with Jenn Butterworth and Mairearad Green
Seamus Begley and Jim Murray
Róisín Ní Mháinnín dances on the tables at 5 AM
Danu admires Richard Wood
Eddi Reader, John Spillane and Alan Taylor
Oisin McAuley and Muireann Nic Amhlaoibh  with John Spillane
Outside the Old Mill (4 in the afternoon)
Inside the Old Mill (4 in the morning)
Sean Smyth with his birthday shirt and whistle
© 2004 by CelticCafe.com