No Eisteddfod would be complete without protests of one kind or another, and in fact Friday is generally acknowledged to be "protest day." These can vary in content, but generally condemn lack of action (or unacceptable action) by the authorities regarding the Welsh language and the protection of the Welsh culture. It must be said, however, that these protests generally take place in a good-natured atmosphere, and the police, while they have a discreet presence on the field all week, do not intervene.

Welsh people would be very aware of the historical significance of this year's Eisteddfod. The festival was held twice in Denbigh before, in 1882 and 1939. In 1882, women were admitted for the first time to the Gorsedd. No chair was awarded at either of the previous Denbigh Eisteddfodau and not only was it awarded this year but it was awarded to a woman. Another break with tradition happened when a Prose-medal winner was elected to serve as Archdruid for the coming three years. Formerly only Crowned and Chaired bards could be candidates. Not only that but this was the first occasion when the entire Gorsedd membership took part in the election, which was formerly done by the Gorsedd board.

The Eisteddfod, as we have said, is really huge, and it is amazing that only 20 full-time staff are employed. The rest of the work is done by at least 1,000 volunteers, backed up by numerous local committees. The organisation is further complicated by the tradition that the festival moves from North to South Wales on alternate years. We were recommended to book accommodation now if we intended to visit next year!

One can't spend a day on the Eisteddfod maes without eating, and, while the festival catered more than adequately for the crowds with several fast-food stands, it was a pleasure to visit the Taste of Wales pavilion, where students from a local catering college served delicatessen-type lunches and traditional Welsh produce. Attached to this stand was a comprehensive mini-market of Welsh food products.

Given the size of the Eisteddfod, and the huge variety in content, we know we have not succeeded in covering everything but we hope we have at least given you more than a flavour of the occasion. We know from experience that in order to fully appreciate the Eisteddfod ambience, one really has to be there in person, so all you travellers out there: get your skates on (or maybe water-skis?).